Sewing and plaiting machine



No. 6l7,227. Patented Jan. 3, I899.

- G. H. W. CURTIS.

SEWING AND PLAITING MACHINE.

(implication filed Oct. 6, 1897.) (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Shaet l.

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Inunmmnm gm 2 a WITNESS.

Noams PETERS co. PHOYOLITHO wnsmnoron n c No. 617,227. Patented Jan. 3,I899. G. H. W. CURTIS.

SEWING AND PLAIT ING MACHINE.

(Application filed Oct. 6, 1897.) (No Model.) I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

WITNESS: MNVENTOR; l jbr l/gi 7 i, 1 M

GEORGE H. \V. CURTIS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF NEW JERSEY.

S EWING AND PLAITING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 617,227, dated January3, 1899.

Application filed October 6, 1897. $erial No. 654,211. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE H. W. CURTIS, a citizen of the United States,residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing and PlaitingMachines, of which the following is a specification, reference being hadtherein to the accompanying drawings.

The object of my invention is to provide a sewing-machine with acomparatively simple mechanism for producing either right .or left handside or knife plaiting or single or double boX-plaiting at the will ofthe operator and with simple adjustments or changes, my improvedmechanism being of such construc tion that in making boX-plaiting thefolds will always be evenly laid, so that the liability of imperfectwork, which sometimes occurs in the use of similar machines heretoforec011- structed,will be entirely avoided.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a front side View of a Singersingle-thread chain-stitch machine equipped with my improved plaitingdevice, and Fig. 2 is a partial end view of the same. Fig. 3 is apartialplan View of the lower part of the machine, and Fig. 4 a bottom viewwith the feeding mechanism omitted to show the plaitin g mechanismbeneath the work-plate. Figs. 5 and 6 are detail sectional views of thereciprocating carriage and connected parts. Fig. 7 is a detail View ofthe cam and ratchet wheels, and Fig. 8 is a similar view showing amodifled form of cam. Fig. 9 is a plan View of the presser-foot, andFig. 10 a vertical section thereof on line 10 10 of Fig. 9. Fig. 11 is adetail View to show the beveled contact parts of the pin 6 and the leverf, and Fig. 12 is a detail view showing the means for adjusting thepressure of the jaw 6 The stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms of thesewing-machine shown are of wellknown construction and need nottherefore be herein described.

The driving-shaft B, carrying at its forward end the rotating looper b,is provided with a bevel-gear b, meshing with a larger bevelgear W, withwhich latter is connected an eccentric c, surrounded by the strap of apitman a, one end of which is adjustably connected to aplaiter-operating lever d, pivoted at d to a plate a, attached to theframe A of the machine. The lever cl, consisting, as shown, of a singlerigid piece of metal with offset parts, is forked at its forward end toembrace a reduced or neck portion d of a slide-block, the lower part 01of which reciprocates on a fixed guide-rod (1, supported beneath thework-plate A, and the upper part d of which works in a slot (0' in saidwork-plate.

E is a reciprocating plate or carriage pivotally connected with theupper part 61 of the slide-block, so as to reciprocate therewith and soas to be adapted to have a slight rocking or tilting motion thereon inmaking boX-plaiting. This pivotal connection of the plate or carriage Ewith the said slide-block is effected by a small bar a, screwed orotherwise attached to the under side of said plate or carriage andprovided with a cylindrical portion 6, fitting in a round hole in saidslide-block. The carriage E carries the plaitin g blades or jaws e ebetween which the strip or strips of fabric to be plaited pass. Thelower blade or jaw e is formed integral with or attached to the carriageE, while the upper blade or jaw e is preferably attached to a bar 6secured to but slightly separated from the said plate or carriage E topermit the material to pass between them, said bar 6 havinga guideslot 6for one strip of material when two strips are being embodied in theplaiting, the other or main strip being guided by thelaterally-adjustable edge-guides e carried by the bars 6 held in anydesired position of adjustment by the set-screw a The upper blade 6which is of spring metal, is held in yielding contact with the lowerblade 6 by a small thumb-nut e on a threaded stud e and which may beturned down more or less to vary the pressure of the upper blade againstthe lower one, as is desirable with different kinds of materials, heavygoods requiring more pressure than light goods.

The carriage E has a tailpiece e provided with a downwardly-projectingpin e extending through a slot a in the work-plate, so as to be engagedat times by a lever f, pivoted at f and having a rounded projection fheld in contact with a star or cam Wheel g by a spring f The cam-wheel gis rigidly secured to or formed integral with a ratchetwheel g, and bothof said wheels turn on the shank of a screw 9 fixed to the work-plate.

G is a swinging plate or pawl-carrier provided with a pawl 9 engagingthe ratchetwheel 9 said pawl-carrier being jointed to the free end of alever 9 pivoted at g to the plate a and connected by a link g and screwg to the pitman c. A spring 9 bearing against the cam-wheel, ispreferably employed to hold said wheel stationary at propertimes or toprevent said wheel from overthrowing when rotated by the pawl g Theupper part d of the slide-block is recessed for the reception of acoil-spring g which presses upward against the lower surface of thecarriage E forward of the pivotal connection of the latter with saidslide-block, said spring thus serving to hold the pin e down in the slota so that the lower end of said pin, extending through said slot, may beengaged by the lever f at times to tilt the forward part of the carriageE and the plaiting jaws or blades 6 c downward in opposition to thestress of the said spring 9 The camwheel g is so rotated byits connectedratchetwheel that during the time required for one forward-and-backwardmovement of the carriage E the projection f on the lever f may rest in arecess between two teeth or arms of the star or cam wheel g, thusuncovering the slot ta so that the pin a will project down through thesame and permit the carriage to reciprocate, with the plaiting blades orjaws c e lifted from the work-plate. At the next forward-and-backwardmovement of said carriage the lever f will be forced outward'or to theleft by one of the teeth or arms of the star or cam wheel covering theslot a and raising the pin 6 and thereby tilting the forward side of thecarriage E and the plaiting blades or jaws downward close to thework-plate in opposition to the stress of the spring g one or both ofthe contiguous parts of the lever fand the pin e being properly roundedor beveled off to permit the former to slide easily beneath the latter.Thus in making box-plaiting the material is folded alternately up anddown by the alternately raised and lowered plaiting blades or jaws, themovements of the parts being preferably so timed that the change of theplaiting blades or jaws from their raised to their lowered position, orvice versa, occurs during the time when the said blades or jaws areperforming their backward movements, so as to fold the material over orunder properly.

To change the machine from box-plaiting to plain or knife plaiting, inwhich all of the folds of the material are laid one way, it is onlynecessary to remove the screw g which connects the link 9 with thepitman c, and the operation of the pawl-and-ratchet mechanism, andconsequently the rotation of the star or cam wheel will then besuspended,

with the plaiting blades or jaws either in a raised or lowered position,according as it may be desired to make the folds of the ma terial upwardor downward in making either right-hand or left-hand knife or plainplaiting.

The throw of the carriage E and of the plaiting blades or jaws to makeplaits of different widths is varied by changing the point of connectionof the pitman c with the plaiter-opcrating lever d by means of thecurved slot d in said lever and in which the end of the said pitman issecured in any desired position of adjustment by means of aswivel-block, threaded pin, and set-nut of ordinary construction. Owingto the curvature of the slot d the plaiting blades or jaws in makingthrows of different lengths will always move forward to the same pointup close to the needle, the backward movements only in making widerplaits being increased. g

The presser-foot I is provided with a wide upwardly-curved toe portion'5, adj ustably secured to said presser-foot by means of a false foot2', extending beneath the foot I and having a rib 2' fitting in a slot iin the bottom of the said foot I. A set-screw tflpassing through theslot and tapped in the rib 1?, holds the foot 2" in any desired positionof adjustment, the said foot 1" being provided with a needleslot of alength equal to the length of its adjustment. Thus when theplaitingblades or jaws have a long throw in forming wide plaits the too i willbe adjusted forward toward the said blades or jaws, so that the latterwill meet said toe earlier in their plaiting movements than theyotherwise would to properly fold the material, but in making narrowplaits or folds the said toe will be adjusted to a position nearer tothe needle.

When the plaiting-blades move forward in their lowered position, theyhave atendency to shove the entire material forward rather than to foldthe material held in their grasp smoothly under the material in advance,so that imperfect work frequently results, owing to the fact that thematerial is not properly held up, so that the plaiting-blades in makingthe lower folds will always pass beneath the material in advance, butwill sometimes shove the material forward more or less, and thus fail tomake a perfect fold or to make any fold at all. To obviate thisdifficulty and thereby absolutely insure perfect work either in makingbox-plaiting or in making plain or knife plaiting by folding thematerial under by reciprocating the plaiting-blades in a loweredposition, I have provided a yielding work-lifter or lower presser, whichis located in front of the needle and in the line of movement of theplaiting-blades and which will thus hold the work up in front of saidblades, so that as the latter move forward in their lowered positionthey will fold the new material which they are carrying forward beneaththe material in advance, and thus insure an even and smooth fold. Thisyielding worklifter in the form of my invention herein shown consists ofa pivoted dog 70, sustained by a support beneath the work-plate andextending up through a slot a in said plate, said dog or work-lifterbeing forced yieldingly upward by a small coil-spring k placed beneathit on said support, the latter being provided with a slotted arm bymeans of which and a setscrew 712 said support is adjustabl y secured tothe said work-plate. The said work-lifter may thus be secured indifferent positions of adjustment, as is desirable in making plaits ofdifferent widths, said worklifterbeing preferably so adjusted as to bebut a slight distance in front of the blades when the latter are intheir extreme backward position.

In the operation of the machine the strip of material to be plaited isled forward between the edge-guides e beneath the bar c and between theplaiting blades or jaws e c to the needle. If a second ordifierently-colored strip is to be employed, it is led through theguide-slot e and between the plaitingblades with the first strip to theneedle, and both strips are plaited or folded together. In

making boX-plaiting the plaiting-blades perform their alternatereciprocations in raised and lowered positions, the work being held upby the yielding work-lifter 7c in front of the plaiting-blades when saidblades are moving forward in a lowered position, and as said bladescontinue their forward movement they depress said work-lifter out of theway and the fold is closely and evenly laid. Thus the said lifter offersno impediment to the proper operation of the blades as the lattercomplete the fold.

In the machine herein shown the gears I) b are are so proportioned thatthe plaitingblades perform one reciprocation while the needle is makingtwo stitches; but these relative movements of the needle andplaitingblades may be varied as may be desired, and the character of thework may also be changed by rotating the cam-wheel g faster or slowerthan has been described or by changing the shape thereof. Thusbysubstituting the camwheel 9 having three projections, for thecam-wheel 9 what is known as double boxplaiting will be produced.

Having thus described my invention, I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent I 1. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combinationwith stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting jawsor blades, means for reciprocating said jaws or blades, and a normallystationary but yielding work-lifter supported by the work-plate belowthe said jaws or blades and in the line of their movement.

2. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting blades or jaws, means forreciprocating and for raising and lowering said blades or jaws, ayielding work-lifter arranged below said blades or jaws and in the lineof their movement, and means for varying the throw of said blades orjaws and also for changing the position of adjustment of saidwork-lifter.

3. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the, combinationwith'stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting bladesor jaws, means for reciprocating the same and for varying their throw, anormally stationary but yielding work-lifter below said blades, andapresser-foot provided with a false foot or sole portion which isadjustable in the line of the movement of the said blades or jaws.

4. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms, of a pair of reciprocating blades or jaws, acarriage on which said blades or jaws are mounted, a slide-block foroperating said carriage and to which slide-block said can riage ispivotally attached, so that said carriage may rock or tilt, a rotaryeccentric, and a lever operatively connected with said eccentric andserving to reciprocate said slide-block and carriage. v

5. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms,of a pair of reciprocating plaiting blades orjaws, a carriage on which said blades or jaws are mounted, a slide-blockto which said carriage is pivotally attached so that said carriage. isfree to rock or tilt, a rotating eccentric, and a lever operativelyconnected with said eccentric and serving to reciprocate saidslide-block and carriage, said lever having an arm provided with acurved slot and to which slotted arm the operating connection is adjustably attached.

6. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms, of a reciprocating carriage E provided with apair of plaiting-blades, a slide-block on which said carriage ispivotally mounted, the lever 01 for reciprocating said' slide-block, theeccentric c geared to the driving-shaft of the machine, and the pitman 0connecting said eccentric with said lever.

7. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms, of a pair of reciprocating blades or jaws inyielding contact with each other, a carriage to which said blades orjaws are attached, a slide-block on which said carriage is pivotallymounted, a guide-rod, as 01 for said slide-block, the lever cl engaginga re duced portion of said slide-block, the rotating eccentric c, andthe pitman 0 connecting said eccentric with said lever.

8. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms, of the reciprocating carriage E provided with apair of plaiting-blades, a slide-block on which said carriage ispivotally mounted, the lever d for reciprocating said slide-block, theeccentric c geared to the driving-shaft of the machine and the pitman 0connecting said eccentric with said lever, the

latter having a slotted arm to enable the conneetion of said pitman tobe varied to change the throw of said plaiting-blades.

9. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with a pair ofreciprocating and pivotally mounted plaitingblades adapted to rock ortilt and to be moved back and forth, of a lever, as d, for reciprocatingsaid blades, a tilting device, as lever f, for rocking or oscillatingsaid blades, an eccentric,' as c, operatively connected with saidoperatinglever and with said blade-tilting device, and means fordisconnecting the tilting mechanism from said eccentric when plain orknife plaiting is to be done.

10. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with the pivotedcarriage E provided with the pin 6 and carrying a pair ofplaiting-blades, a slide-block for reciprocating said carriage, thelever d for operating said slide-block, the eccentric c geared to thedriving-shaft of the machine, the pitman 0 connecting said eccentricwith said lever, the spring-pressed lever f arranged to engage the saidpin e a camwheel, as g, for operating said lever f, a ratchet-Wheel torotate said cam-wheel, a pawl-carrier and pawl to operate saidratchet-wheel the lever 9 and the link 9 and screw g connecting saidlever g with the said pitman, and a spring 9 for tilting the pivotedcarriage in opposition to the movements imparted thereto by the saidlever f acting on the said pin 6 In testimony whereof I affix mysignature in presence of two witnesses.

GEORGE H. WQCURTIS.

Witnesses:

HENRY J. MILLER, HENRY OALVER.

